an overhead shot of shredded pork carnitas in a round metal pan. a small set of tongs with green silicone tips rests against the edge of the pan. additional taco topics are visible in small bowls around the pan.

the versatility of carnitas (sous vide carnitas)

A long, slow cook time makes this shredded pork tender, while a trip under the broiler adds crispy, flavorful edges.

Carnitas are tender, crispy shredded pork cooked low and slow for a long period of time. They’re a classic taco filling from the Michoacán region of Mexico. I’m Jewish and, despite never having kept kosher, pork has really only become a regular fixture in my diet in the past decade (thanks, Jimmy!). And, oh wow did I miss out not knowing about carnitas sooner. So gather ’round and let me tell you why I love carnitas, and why I love cooking them with a sous vide.

When we first got our sous vide a couple years ago, one of the first recipes Jimmy made with it was Serious Eats’ carnitas. I was like, “What are carnitas? Don’t you like my chicken tacos?” and Jimmy was like, “Of course I do, but just trust me.” So I did. And, as with everything else I’ve trusted him with — did not regret it in the least. The recipe starts with 4 pounds of pork and makes so much carnitas that every other month or so we declare it Taco Week and basically just eat tacos for 5 days straight. It is THE BEST.

Unlike other taco fillings (shoutout to my old favorite: Cooking Light‘s ancho chicken tacos), carnitas make versatile leftovers because they aren’t covered in sauce or heavily seasoned. The ingredients list is short and generates minimal waste, which is always a win in my book. They freeze well and can be easily reheated in the microwave or in a cast iron skillet without losing their texture.

While carnitas are a natural fit for tacos (and pair well with homemade hot sauce, corn tortillas, and guacamole), they’re also an excellent canvas for a lot of other flavors. When we’re in a pinch for a quick and easy dinner, we grab any leftover carnitas we have in the freezer and use them in grilled cheese, toss them with scallions and hoisin sauce and serve them in lettuce cups, scramble them into eggs, use them in pupusa filling, and have even added them to carbonara.

Crispy carnitas served up in a round cake pan, surrounded by lots of other small bowls filled with taco toppings.

Why sous vide carnitas?

You can make carnitas in the oven, but we prefer to use a sous vide. Sous vide is a method of cooking that involves vacuum sealing your ingredients and cooking them in a water bath at set temperature for a set number of hours. It’s how restaurants are able to prepare steaks at specific levels of doneness ready to go before customers even arrive. The sous vide circulates water at a precisely regulated temperature, which means your food is at much lower risk of overcooking or drying out.

Traditionally, carnitas are braised or simmered in fat (usually lard) for 3-4 hours, but using the sous vide means they’re basically cooking in their own fat, which helps keep all the flavor in the meat instead of letting it escape into the rendered fat. The carnitas get some subtle flavor from onions, garlic, bay leaves, cinnamon sticks, and a whole orange (yes, an orange), but the pork’s rich flavor is truly the star of the show.

Though the sous vide method takes longer, we prefer it because we can start it the day before and know it will be done in time for dinner. It also means they can cook basically unsupervised, which is a huge win for our time.

Of course, when you cook any kind of meat in a sous vide what you gain in precise interior cooking, you lose in exterior crispiness, browning, or charring. In the case of carnitas, once the meat has cooked, you’ll shred it and stick it under the broiler in the oven for 10 minutes to get brown and gorgeously crispy.

Since the Serious Eats recipe does lose some moisture in the oven, we take the extra step of reducing the remaining juice and aromatics from the bag in a pot on the stove; once the carnitas have finished crisping up, the juice gets strained back into the pan with the carnitas.

Cooking notes

1. The right cut of meat

You’ll want to pick up pork butt (aka “Boston butt”) or pork shoulder (aka “Picnic roast”) for your carnitas. Both are tough, fatty cuts which means they benefit from long, slow cooking times. Pork shoulder tends to be sold with the skin on, while pork butt is better for shredding. The original Serious Eats recipe calls for pork shoulder, but we tend to use butt (lol) because it’s easier to find.

If you can’t find either cut in the meat section of your grocery store, hit up the meat counter. They often have larger cuts in the back and can trim them to the size you need. If you can’t find a boneless cut, that’s okay too — either ask the meat counter to remove the bone, or remove it yourself at home, just make sure to account for any weight lost when you remove the bone. So if your grocery store only has bone-in cuts, go for a 4.5-5 pound cut instead of 4 pounds.

We make carnitas often enough that if we can’t find a 4 pound cut, we’ll buy an 8 or 12 pound cut, divide it in halves or thirds, and freeze the remaining amount for later.

The sous vide carnitas cooking process: A sous vide is attached to the side of a large metal stock pot. A bag filled with pork is submerged in the water. Two upside down pint classes and a large metal serving spoon are helping weigh down the bag.
To keep the bag submerged, we used two pint glasses and a metal slotted spoon.

2. Setting up your sous vide

Place the prepared meat in a gallon-sized plastic, silicone, or vacuum seal bag. If you’re using a vacuum sealer, remove all the air from the bag and seal it shut. If using a plastic or silicone bag, make sure everything is packed in tightly with as much air pressed out as possible — and do your best to get all the air out of the bag before sealing.

Clip the sous vide to the side of your cooking container — a plastic tub, large stock pot, or dutch oven will work fine, as long as the whole bag can be submerged in the water bath. Some of the water will evaporate as it cooks, so you’ll either want to add more water or start out with more than enough water. You can also loosely tent aluminum foil over the cooking container to catch any evaporating water and drip it back into the bath. If your bag floats, attach it to the side with a clip and use sous vide weights or a wet kitchen towel to keep it submerged.

Set the sous vide to 165F, and let it run for 18-24 hours. The longer it cooks the more tender, shreddable, and flavorful the meat will be.

3. Finishing with crispy edges

When the pork is done cooking, it’s gonna be super ugly and pale pink in color. That’s normal. It’s fully cooked, it just hasn’t had a chance to brown yet. Use a pair of tongs to transfer the meat to a large sheet pan and place any of the aromatics — the orange, onion, cinnamon sticks, etc — in a small sauce pot. Pour any of the remaining juices into the pot and put it on the stove on medium-high heat to reduce.

Use two forks to shred the pork on the sheet pan, then place it on the top rack of your oven under the broiler for up to 10 minutes, pulling it out to stir and flip the pieces about halfway through. When the carnitas come out of the oven and the liquid on the stove has reduced by about half, pour the juice through a strainer into the sheet pan with the carnitas and toss to coat.

You will need:

  • Sous vide — I like Anova’s because it can be operated manually and doesn’t require an app (though it does have one).
  • Gallon cooking pouch — I use a gallon freezer bag, but you can buy specialty sous vide bags with air suction pumps, silicone sous vide bags, or a vacuum sealer if you have one.
  • Large sheet pan — I like one with high sides to contain everything while you shred the pork.
  • Sous vide weights — Optional, but you can add these to the bag to keep it from floating.
  • Wire mesh strainer — Honestly I don’t know how I ever survived in my kitchen without one of these. You’ll need it to strain the juices back into the sheet pan when the carnitas are done getting crispy.

Sous Vide Carnitas

Recipe by Serious Eats, very slightly adapted by The Practical KitchenCuisine: MexicanDifficulty: Easy
Servings

8-12

servings
Prep time

15

minutes
Cooking Time

18-24

hours
Temperature

165F

A long, slow cook time makes this shredded pork tender, while a trip under the broiler adds crispy, flavorful edges.

Ingredients

  • 4 lbs boneless pork shoulder or pork butt

  • 1 medium onion, chopped

  • 6 garlic cloves

  • 1 cinnamon stick, broken into pieces

  • 2 bay leaves

  • 1 medium orange, cut into quarters or eighths, peel still on

  • Salt and pepper

Directions

  • Combine all the ingredients in a large bowl. Season generously with salt and pepper, toss to combine.
  • Transfer the mixture to a large vacuum bag and seal tightly, pressing all the air out to prevent it from floating.
  • Fill cooking basin with water, attach the sous vide, and set to 165F.
  • Place vacuum sealed bag in the water bath so that it’s fully submerged. The water will evaporate as it cooks, so make sure there’s an extra 2-3″ of water above the bag, or add more water while it’s cooking.

    Loosely covering the top of the basin with aluminum foil will help any evaporated water return to the bath and reduces the amount of water loss during cooking.
  • Cook the meat for 18-24 hours. The meat will be fully cooked by 12 hours, but at 18-24 hours the flavor and tenderness will be at its peak.
  • Remove the bag from the water bath. Transfer the pork to a large sheet pan, and transfer the aromatics and remaining juices to a small sauce pot.
  • Place the small sauce pot on the stove over medium-high heat and bring to a rolling boil to reduce.
  • Shred the meat using two forks or your hands, then place in the oven under your broiler for 10 minutes, flipping and stirring the pieces halfway through.

    NOTE: If you don’t have a broiler, place the sheet pan on the top rack of your oven at 500F degrees.
  • When the liquid has reduced by about half and the carnitas have come out of the oven, pour the liquid through a strainer into the sheet pan with the carnitas and toss to coat.

Notes

  • Source: https://www.seriouseats.com/recipes/2017/01/sous-vide-carnitas-crispy-mexican-style-pulled-pork-recipe.html
  • Carnitas can be made up to 5 days in advance and kept in an airtight container in the fridge. Carnitas can also be frozen in an airtight container for up to 3 months.
  • If you can’t find exactly 4 pounds of pork, ask at the meat counter of your grocery story. They can often cut exactly the amount you need. If you buy a bone-in cut, add at least half a pound of weight to account for the bone being removed before cooking.
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